How to put in a Slate Tile Floor in 8

How to put in a Slate Tile Floor in 8 Actions

A stage by stage guide telling you how to put in slate tiles in your flooring. This really is a method which may be utilized indoors, mostly within the kitchen area.

Stage 1: Un-packing, mixing and sorting the slate

As slate is really a natural stone, it is susceptible to becoming cut at various thickness. With a few slates starting from 5mm on one finish from the tile to 15mm in the other finish. This is not usually the case however the size/thickness does generally differ in between tiles, nevertheless it isn’t suggested to put a 5mm believe slate tile close to one of 15mm/20mm because the stage produced in between tiles can show to become not just harmful but additionally extremely unpleasant to stroll on as well as appear at. An efficient method of sorting slate would be to organize them into 3 piles of thick, medium and skinny. This may help throughout the set up from the tiles while you will not have any significant variations in thickness, nevertheless to get rid of all actions in between tiles isn’t usually the case as most clients predict a minor stage right here and there (this really is generally the specified impact when buying tiles like natural slate).

Stage 2: Getting ready the surface area to become tiled

Most surfaces have to be sealed having a primer; this may enhance the adhesion in between tiles and adhesive. Because it may be fairly challenging to understand which surfaces require sealing it is suggested to seal any surface area which you might be uncertain about. The suggested primer to make use of is Larsen’s Acrylic Primer. Larsen’s Acrylic Primer is really a prepared to use primer to be used on porous and challenging substrates before tiling or screeding or to seal gypsum plasters or screeds before the addition of cement primarily based adhesives. It may be utilized neat when sealing substrates or diluted by having an equivalent amount of water for common priming. This may be utilized utilizing a roller and it’s colored to make sure equivalent application. NOTE – prior to priming/sealing any surface area, make sure it’s swept clear of any dust, oil, grease and grime and so on.

Stage 3: Preparing & Setting out

When preparing & setting out for tiling it’s best practice to centralise the tiling towards the room/area to become tiled. This may minimize on waste and in most cases appear better. To do this, do the following:

Measure one finish from the room towards the other and mark the floor half way (divide the measurement in half).

Repeat this in the opposite finish from the room.

Now join both centre marks utilizing a long straight edge to create the centre line (In some cases a further few centre marks might be needed in order to become able to reach each mark with the straight edge).

Now lay out a line of tiles each way from the centre line to establish the best starting position. Do this starting with the edge of a tile towards the line, if this leaves extremely small, challenging or in-practical cuts anywhere then repeat this process but start a middle of a tile towards the line rather than the edge of a tile. In some cases neither of these ways will be ideal so you might have to start off-centre in order to make sure best results all-round.

Stage 4: Mixing adhesive and sticking tiles

Once the best starting position has been established, you will have to mix up some tile adhesive, for this we recommend Larsen’s Professional Fast Set PTB. Fast Set PTB is particularly suitable for solid bed fixing in between 5 and 20 mm and readily copes with uneven tiles and substrates. Fast Set PTB is available in Grey and White and is suitable for fixing ceramic, fully vitrified tiles, natural stone and mosaics to a variety of substrates including heated screeds. NOTE – This really is a fast setting adhesive so it is suggested to mix small amounts at a time. When sticking tiles down into a kitchen area, hallway and so on. It’s suggested to start in the furthest point from the door and work backwards towards the door to make sure which you don’t box yourself into a corner while you will not be able to stand on freshly laid tiles. Start spreading the tile adhesive onto the floor utilizing a solid bed trowel; this may be acquired from most builders’ merchants and so on. Hold the trowel at a 45? angle when spreading adhesive. When laying the tiles remember to space them at least 5mm apart from each other this really is for grout. It isn’t 5mm grout lines with all tiles but this really is the suggested dimension for most floor tiles nevertheless allow for small variations in these sizes as natural slate isn’t cut completely square.

Stage 5: Cutting the tiles

Once you have laid a line of tiles down you will have to cut a tile to fit in against the wall/units and so on. To do this you will have to measure the area where a tile would be to be fitted (Remember to allow for grout spaces in between tiles and against wall) utilizing a tape measure and then transfer this measurement onto a tile utilizing a pencil/marker. In regards to actually cutting the tile some would say this really is best done dry, this means utilizing an electric cutter without water. NOTE – Not all cutters have the ability to cut dry so this can’t usually be done. If cutting wet (with water) then be sure to allow slate to dry completely prior to sealing. When cutting natural stone it’s suggested to make use of an overhead cutter like the RUBI DW range but as these may be extremely costly for someone that is not doing this as a full time job, there are smaller and cheaper alternatives that may be purchased from most builders merchants. NOTE – for cutting instructions please refer towards the operating manual that comes with the cutter.

Stage 6: Sealing the tiles

Once the adhesive has cured (set hard) it’s extremely important to apply a sealer/protector. For this we recommend Larsen’s Impregnating Sealer, this really is ideal for providing a water repellent, stain resistant seal to slate and porous tiles. This really is to become utilized utilizing a roller and must be utilized evenly. It is suggested to apply 2 coats prior to grouting and once after.

Stage 7: Grouting

Once the sealer has cured, it is time to mix up the grout. For this we recommend Larsen’s Professional Stain Resistant Wide Joint Grout. Professional Stain Resistant Wide Joint Grout is really a specially formulated, flexible, cement primarily based wide joint grout. This really is to become utilized utilizing a grouting float spreading it into the gaps at a 45degree angle NOTE – try to concentrate on keeping the grout as close towards the edges from the tiles as possible, this really is not crucial while you have sealed the tiles but will make it a lot easier to sponge off after. When grouting, you should only cover in between 1-2 m2 at a time and then sponge off as if grout is left sitting on tiles for too long it may be extremely challenging to remove! (In between 10-15 minutes is ideal). Once all the grout has been utilized you might have to clear the tiles having a grouting sponge again but make sure to make use of fresh clear water every 2-3 m2. Once the tiles are clear and the grout has cured (set hard) another coat of sealer is required

Stage 8: Routine maintenance.

Depending on foot traffic, the floor will have to be re-sealed/cleaned having a professional tile cleaner every 6-12 months, for this we recommend Larsen’s Concentrated Tile Clear. Concentrated Tile Clear is part from the Professional Tile Maintenance Range. It’s a concentrated hard surface area cleaner specifically designed to be used within the routine cleaning and maintenance of tile and other hard flooring

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  3. The simple Way Guide Laying Your Floor Tiles
  4. How to put Ceramic Tile Just like a Expert
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