About Natural Stone Tiles

Stone is really a defining function in almost any space and provides immediate solidity, luxury and grandness whether or not you select to cover all of your partitions with marble or simply utilize it to get a easy round basin. Even though stone is definitely an very difficult materials as soon as set up, the self -builder should usually consider unique care to determine the supply and set up procedure operates easily. Grime from foot traffic or perhaps a reckless knock from the energy instrument may lead to a costly repair expenses. Maintain the space clear and tidy, examine bigger products like a stone tub, can match via a door entrance (you might have to depart off architrave/frames to permit additional space). The weight of stonework also implies that it ought to be prepared in in the home’s design phase as load-bearing joists might need to become elevated in dimension or perhaps doubled as much as deal with the weight.

Getting ready flooring

A brand new concrete screed will be the ideal foundation for stone floor tiles, so long as the concrete is totally healed. New concrete ought to be a minimum of 6 months outdated and display no indicators of remaining humidity. You might have to make use of a skinny screed of self-leveling compound to even out any reduced places. Once more, depart the compound to completely remedy prior to tiling.

If you are focusing on new flooring quality T&G chipboard panels, double examine the edges are fixed at 300mm centers and tile onto the surface with a flexible adhesive all the trade adhesive manufacturers have powder mixes intended for timber flooring. To get a restoration project, never try and tile directly onto outdated floorboards. Instead, create a brand new sub-base with 15mm exterior quality plywood, screwed down at 300mm centers with stainless steel screws. Stagger the board joints and adjust any uneven floorboards prior to starting work. Coat the boards with thinned PVA to seal the wood.

Outdated cork and vinyl floor covering ought to usually be pulled up. Examine the floor beneath is dry, flat and strong enough to support the new stone tiling. If you are faced with quarry or ceramic tiles, it is possible to tile directly over the surface so long as there are no indicators of damp, cracking or movement. Prime the outdated tile surface to give the adhesive a key’ for bonding and make set out your new tiles so that the grout gaps aren’t aligned using the existing floor. The exceptions are shower or wet space partitions that ought to be lined with a waterproof lining panel to provide the tile foundation.

Installing real stone tiles

The porous surface of many natural stone products makes them more vulnerable to staining than glazed tiles. Examine the manufacturer’s instructions for precise laying instructions and usually seal the surfaces of the tiles, if recommended, prior to fixing it’s all too easy to spill adhesive on a tile and not notice. Open the tile packs and work from several packs to evenly distribute any color variation between packs.

Tiling a floor

With a little planning and careful setting out, dramatic stone flooring is as easy as tiling a wall. There’s usually less cutting around awkward shapes than with wall tiles and you are not fighting against gravity. Remove skirting boards and door thresholds prior to starting work. In the setting out stages, it’s important to make sure the tiles look straight from the entrance to the space. Often partitions are bowed or out of true so examine your measurements in several places along each wall. It costs slightly more but a powder mix rapid-setting adhesive will be the best option for most flooring. It will reach full strength in as little as 24 hours so the rest of the build isn’t delayed.

Finally, plan in almost any movement joints required. These are 6/8mm wide and filled with flexible filler that allows for movement and prevents tile damage. These joints are normally set up where flooring abuts walling, steps, columns or other hard objects on large floor areas and over structural movement joints. Flooring less than four meters between partitions will not normally require movement joints.

STEP-BY-STEP

1 Find the mid-points of the two longest partitions and snap a chalk line across the space between these points. Repeat for the shorter partitions but adjust the line so that it passes via the center of the first line at right angles. Try to work with as many whole tiles as possible, even if it indicates adjusting the grout line width slightly.

2 Lay tiles along the two lines to examine if they look right from the doorway. If any gaps in the partitions are less than half a tile wide, shift the line across to make more of a gap. Also move the guide lines so that tiles around a dominant function (e.g. a fireplace or French windows) are symmetrical and there are whole tiles in the doorway.

3 Spread about one square meter of tile adhesive/grout into one of the right angles made by the two crossing chalk lines. Scrap the notched edge of the trowel across the mix to form ridges of the same thickness.

4 Lay the first few tiles along the edge of the longest center line. Gently press the tiles into place, making sure they also line up using the other center line. Add plastic spacers at each corner to maintain them exactly the same distance apart for grouting.

5 Work outwards from the middle of the space until you have laid all the whole tiles on one half of the floor. Make use of a spirit level to examine the tiles are in the same level. Now move across to the other side of the longest center line and add the rest of the whole tiles. Depart to set for 24 hours.

6 Use the tile cutter to trim the edge tiles to the right shape. Measure the space at both ends in case the partitions are uneven and remember to permit for the grouting gap. Usually wear goggles and gloves when cutting tiles.

7 Depart the adhesive to set for a minimum of 12 hours, then grout between the tiles using the adhesive/grout. Force the mix into the gaps with a squeegee, operating from side to side and up and down the tiles.

8 For wide joint lines, run a piece of hosepipe over the grouting surface. Wipe off any grout from the tiles with a damp sponge, prior to it sets hard.

Wall tiling

Natural stone tiles add a touch of luxury to any space. There’s no unique trick to finding out how many tiles you will require, just measure the height and width of the area and multiply these together to give the area to become tiled. Divide this figure by the area of a single tile (e.g. a 10x10cm tile has an area of 100cm) to give the number of tiles you require. Add 10 percent for cutting and wastage.
Set up will be the same as for ceramic tiles but you will require an electric tile cutter with a diamond wheel and the capacity to tackle your chosen depth of tile. Most natural stone is easier to cut than ceramic. The additional weight of real stone ought to also be considered use strong battens, a minimum of 50mm wide and screwed to the wall, to support the foundation line of tiles.

Make use of a saw tile to cut a tile to match around an awkward shape like a pipe or architrave. If you have to cut a curve, to match around the side of a basin for example, make a card template the same dimension because the tile. Make cuts at around 10mm spacing along the curve edge and press the template into position. Trim the 10mm strips to match exactly around the curve and transfer this shape to the tile. Remember to go away a minimum of 2mm for grouting.

STEP-BY-STEP

1 To avoid lots of cut tiles or an unbalanced look, make up a tile gauge (a batten using the tile dimensions and grout spaces marked along the edge) to plan the positions of the tiles so that the tops of the last row of tiles under any window will be exactly flush using the ledge. You might find you will have to cut the bottom row of tiles.

2 Screw a batten to the wall along the line you have marked. Examine with a spirit level that it’s horizontal. Fix a second upright batten along the left side of the area to become tiled. Once more, make use of a spirit level to make sure it’s vertical.

3 Spread the adhesive/grout over about half a square meter of the wall, starting in the corner made by the two battens. Use the notched side of the spreader to form even ribbons of adhesive. This is especially important for heavy stone tiles. Like a rule of thumb, 6mm notched spreaders are used for partitions and 10mm versions for flooring.

4 Start to tile, pressing the tiles gently onto the wall and sliding into position until you see adhesive squeeze out around the sides. Press spacers into each corner and hold a spirit level across the tiles to determine if they form a flat surface. Continue to tile, focusing on about a square meter at a time until you’ve fixed all the whole tiles. Clear off adhesive from the tile surface as you work.

5 Next, lay tiles along the sides and front of the window reveal so that they cover the edges of the wall tiles. Wipe off any adhesive prior to it has dried with a damp sponge.

6 Depart the splashback to dry totally prior to removing the timber battens. Now cut the tiles to match into any gaps in the bottom of the splashback and in the front and sides of the window reveal. Fix in place.

7 When all the tiles are fixed, depart to dry. Force more adhesive/grout into the gaps between the tiles with a squeegee. Wipe off all the excess grout with a damp sponge, rinsed out regularly in clear water. When the surface is dry, polish with a dry cloth.

8 To form a flexible waterproof seal new tiles and a worktop, run a bead of waterproof sealant around the bottom of the tiles.

TIPS

If you are tiling around an acrylic tub, half fill with water to make the rim flex to its maximum extent prior to filling the gap with a bathroom sealant.

Make screw holes for bathroom accessories with a masonry drill bit. To stop the bit slipping and damaging the surface, stick some masking tape over the area to become
drilled.

Buy all the tiles you will require at one time if possible to avoid any differences between batches.

If you want to form a pattern, draw a plan of the space on graph paper to make sure the pattern will look in proportion and symmetrical.

To tile a space that has to become used everyday, tile one half of the area at a time so you can still walk across the bare floor while the tile adhesive sets.
If you find you are operating slowly and the adhesive is beginning to set, only spread around half a square meter at a time. It’s essential the adhesive is still wet when the tiles are being fixed.

Fireplaces

Stone Fireplaces are a defining function to get a lounge or dining space, making the right frame to a wood, coal or gas fire. Of course, any chimney linings ought to be pre-installed in your self-build project and the surround really does come in the final stages of the project. Most companies offer a design and install service that’s worth the money for this kind of large and costly objects. Otherwise, examine your builder is happy to consider on the job. It might need additional lifting equipment but the set up procedure isn’t complicated. You can select anything from the clear lines of a contemporary fireplace to a reproduction Regency style or contact an architectural salvage yard to get a genuine period piece. Most yards will also undertake restoration work on stone and marble fireplaces.

Baths and basins

Baths, basins and washstands can be either stone resin or solid stone. There is really a wide range of colors available from off-whites to reds, browns and blacks. Bear in mind the loading on a suspended floor baths can weigh from 200 to 500kg or more.

As well because the luxury of a solid stone basin, some of the modern designs can also be breathtaking, with open wave forms, travertine mosaic and deceptively skinny slab designs.

Worktops

Granite will be the most popular of the natural stonework surfaces. It’s easy to clear and contrasts well with lighter wood carcases. Marble and limestone look good but are softer and can scratch or stain. When you plan your kitchen, make sure the operates of floor cabinets can withstands weights as much as 90kgs per square meter average to get a 30mm solid granite top. You can also specify 40mm tops, made from two 20mm layers with a ply central insert to reduce the weight. Your kitchen supplier might need to alter the design and add additional support around sink cut-outs and appliances. The suppliers will also require a clear work area so all sinks and hobs ought to be removed and kept clear of the work area. If you can, don’t install the wall sockets until after the worktop is fitted this will avoid any accidental damage because the stone is slid into place over the units. Depending on the shape and dimension of each component part, the suppliers might suggest additional joints in solid granite worktops because the grain structure can be very vulnerable to cracking if there’s any stress over longer lengths or around narrow cut-out areas. Don’t forget to order matching granite up-stands

for the partitions. These are around 100m high with polished surfaces and edges. Color-matched silicone sealant is used for the jointing.
As with sanitary products, composite quartzite can reduce the price of the kitchen but still give some of the solidity and feel of a real stone. It also has the advantage of grain consistency and a wide range of solid reds, blues, greens and more neutral tones.

Cleaning and maintenance

Maintain a copy of the care and maintenance instructions provided with your stonework as sealants and care procedures vary. Granite surfaces like worktops don’t require too much specialist cleaning because the surface doesn’t absorb stains in the same way like a softer travertine stone.

Wipe up any spills as quickly as possible, especially liquids like acidic juices and alcohol. Fine grit will be the big enemy of natural stone flooring as ground in
particles cause striations than eventually dull the surface. Make use of a mop, soft brush or vacuum to collect up the grime. A neutral pH detergent and warm water will remove grease and other light stains but make sure the floor is dried with a soft cloth to prevent a film build of residues.

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